The Classics: Potato Salad (Greenpoint Style)

At our house, the first warm day that my husband takes out his grill is potato salad season.  I love a good potato salad particularly because it is such an easy side for a casual get together.  One labor day I brought it to a luncheon at a friend's family beach house in the Rockaways.  Her grandmother was so full of compliments I felt like a Domestic Potato Salad Goddess for the day.  Really, I think I just got lucky.  Two uninspiring batches of potato salad later and my domestic goddess status was demoted.

The ingredients in my potato salad are like commas in my writing attempts.  I just, don't know, when, I have too many, where, to put them in, or when, to leave them out.  Like all cooking, art and life (it alway comes to that), the priority has to be balance, then all the ingredients fall into place.  The formula: potatoes, one or two crunchy vegetables, one or two flavor boosters like onion, hot pepper, or capers, a choice of meat, egg or fish, an herb or spice, and a dressing to serve as a binder, most commonly mayonaise or oil paired with an acidic flavor.  More than that and I have not been successful.  The flavors just don't shine through.

So if I haven't mentioned this before, Nick and I live in Greenpoint, Brookyn.  This is a well established Polish community with distinctly Polish flavors up and down (and in between) our main drag.  This suits me and my Polish-American husband just fine, especially when we are craving some comfort food in form of a smokey fish or meat.  The morning of this potato salad, a neighbor brought us a beautiful, rich coral orange steak of smoked salmon from Acme Smoked Fish.  Sadly. I have never been able to go myself as they are only open for public retail on Friday mornings.  Ah, the limitations of a day job.  Thinking of playing hooky anytime soon? Maybe for an exceptional smoked salmon experience?   Needless to say, some if it made it into our potato salad and the rest, well, got devoured as is and with our fingers.

Potato Salad Greenpoint Style with Smoked Salmon

5 or 6 potatoes cubed

2 to three scallions (I like to use only the greens) chopped

3 radishes chopped

A handful of the chopped radish greens*

2 teaspoons capers

3 1/2 inch cut of smoked salmon steak diced

sea salt to taste

black pepper to taste

1/2 cup mayonaise

2 tablespoons dijon mustard

2 glugs of olive oil

juice of one lemon

Boil your potatos in salted water until tender but not mushy.  You want them to be soft when your fork goes through but not to fall apart.  Then drain.  In a large bowl, toss your chopped radishes, radish greens, scallions, smoked salmon and capers,  In a small bowl, whisk together mayonaise, mustard, olive oil, and lemon juice with a little salt and pepper.  I like to add the potatoes while they are still very warm but not steaming hot.  I would recommend letting them cool for 7 to 10 minutes.  The hotter they are the more they will absorb your dressing.  You want them to absorb some of the dressing but not so much so that the other ingredients don't get enough.  Finish with another sprinkling of sea salt and black pepper.

*I often reserve the greens of a root vegetable to use in a dish like I would parsley.  Why waste it when it is tasty and delicious?

Artful Brunch: Scones

Before I decided that I liked eating scones, I liked the word scone.  I like how the sound pours out of your mouth long and low like a church bell.  I also liked the idea of a scone, evoking cloth napkins and china tea cups.  Although what was a beautiful, auditory sound for me was paired with a dry, sandy mouthful of lumpy bread.  This was made worse one unfortunate weekday morning when, in a groggy, decaffeinated state, I convinced myself that it would be a good idea to get a scone at Starbucks.  Still dry, lumpy bread but with too much sugar.

But still, I was not ready to give up on the romanticized vision of china teacups.  And the word scone falling off the tongue easier than, let's say, pancake.  Not that I have anything against pancakes. Particularly if they are made with buttermilk and plump with blueberries (Janice!).  And I will say it, I didn't like pancakes until I had them made that way.  Proving yet again that it isn't the food alone but the approach.  Brunch, like all of life's simple pleasures, should be artful.

The first batch of scones I made were my best scones.  Back in the fall, after a very ambitious day of apple picking that became the inspiration to many an apple laden recipe (see here), I made apple cheddar scones.  These were adapted from a recipe in "Once Upon a Tart" by Frank Mentesana and Jerome Audureau.  I came upon this lovely little cookbook quite by accident.  Or rather I should say that my mother came across this book in the library she was working in.  I came to learn that this little cafe is located on Sullivan St. in Manhattan and if you are in the neighborhood it is most certainly worth a visit.

Back to the scone recipe.  My scone adventure began with a simple recipe for Cheddar-Parmesan Scones with Fresh Dill.  I was first intrigued by how simple the recipe was.  I didn't even have to take out my Kitchenaid mixer.  How could it hurt? I swapped out the Parmesan, cayenne and dill for apples, being that I had about a bushel on hand anyway.  The result was not dry, but a delicately balanced, sweet and savory,  steamy cloud of bread that drank butter when you spread it on.  I thought that perhaps it was the apples that balanced out the texture but I have since made a few versions without that were almost as soft.  (The apples do help a little.)  My most recent version of this scone was closest to the original.  But the recipe is so adaptable that you can find any combination of sweet or savory additions to make this work. Something to remember is that if the flavor you are adding is moist by nature it adds to that fluffy, soft, texture in your scone.  The book does have a variety of scone recipes, all were the ratios are different depending on the types of ingredients being used, and is worth checking out (for other things too).  My sincere thanks Frank and Jerome!

Cheddar-Asiago Scones with Chives

(adapted from Once upon a Tart by Frank Mentesana and Jerome Audureau with Carolynn Carreno)

2 2/3 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 stick of butter, cut in 8 pieces

3 large eggs,

1/2 cup cold milk

2 tablespoons chopped chives

2 cups cheddar cheese

1/3 cup grated asiago

Position one of your oven racks in the center of your oven and preheat your oven to 400 degrees. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.   Dump the dry ingredients into the bowl of a food processor and pulse so that they are mixed evenly.  Add the butter run your food processor for 15 seconds.  Continue to pulse if there are still chunks of butter.  It should look a little like bread crumbs. Then dump the mixture into a large bowl.  In a smaller bowl, whisk the eggs o break the yolks.  Whisk in milk followed but chives and cheeses.   Then pour the wet ingredients in with the dry and stir with a wooden spoon.  Note that it will seem very dry at first but it will come together.  Once you have a dough- like consistency scoop  up about a 1/2 cup of it in your hands and plop in on the parchment paper.  They should be about 2 inches apart.  Bake for 20-25 minutes, until the tops are golden brown and a toothpick comes out clean.

More Signs of Spring: Butter Braised Radishes with Herbs

If you have never thought to cook a radish before this post is for you.  Think of all the classic flavor marriages you have come to know: bacon and eggs, peanut butter and jelly, hamburgers and french fries.  Now let me add radishes and butter. I know that you are thinking, "oh sure, what doesn't go well with butter?" The next time you butter a warm, crusty, slice of baguette, sprinkle it with salt and add a few radish slices and you will see what I mean.  After you have done that, think of that crisp, peppery texture softened in brown butter.  Then try this recipe.  Radishes forever transformed in your mind.  I promise.

Butter Braised Radishes with Herbs

A dozen radishes scrubbed clean with their ends trimmed off

2 1/2 tablespoons butter

sea salt

1/2 a teaspoon of sugar

3 sprigs of thyme

1 cup mixed chopped herbs such as chives, dill, parsley, thyme or tarragon (I used dill, chives and thyme) 

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees.  In a medium sized, cast iron skillet, melt the butter until it becomes a light golden brown.  Add radishes whole with sugar and salt.  Sautee` over medium heat turning occasionally so they get a good amount of color on all sides. Then transfer to the oven and roast until soft. Toss your herbs with radishes in the hot skillet.  Transfer to a bowl once the herbs wilt to stop the cooking.  

Table Style: Porcelain Top Cafetera

Let me share with you my birthday present.  My husband knows how to make me happy.  I have kept this little coffee pot bookmarked on my wish list for almost a year.  It just wasn't that easy to find.  I first came across it in our neighbors' home.  I am very particular about my coffee and at the same time very simple in my lifestyle. Only a like-minded and worldly couple could have had such a beautiful object that makes good, simple coffee.  "Where did you find this?" I ask them.   Their reply?  Spain.  Great...so where do I get one?  I desperately ask if, per chance, they are going back to Spain anytime soon.  

I have always been a fan of the stove top cafetera.  It was my first coffee maker of choice and is fondly remembered in my household growing up.  Memories of dinner with guests always bring to mind the picture of my father raising himself from the head of the table after the main course had been adequately devoured and announcing "Who wants coffee?  Black or brown?"  Black or brown was my fathers' delineation between what was considered Italian coffee, espresso, and American drip coffee.  As an Italian-American household we always offered both. Now he has a fancy espresso machine.  Since he takes such pride in his coffee toy, we usually skip the American coffee.  I have to admit, it has been a long time since I have heard him ask, "Black or brown?" and thinking about it takes me back. 

Back to my new gadget:  unlike the signature, silver cafetera that I am so used to, this one has a porcelain top instead of the octagonal, aluminum one.  Yes, I am a sucker for this beautiful, white, ridged form but practically speaking, I love how it goes from the stove to the table.  The minimal oxidation is nice too.  It makes for some easy cleaning.  So through some serious google research we managed to track down this item on amazon.com.  If you are interested, it is made by a company called Valira and the model is Claudia.

Dinner on the Fly: Mushroom and Barley Soup

This rainy night I needed comfort food.  It is work to be an optimistic person and I openly accept the challenge.  Anything worth having can not be attained without the fair amount of effort including a sunny disposition and the unrelenting push forward into the abyss of could-bes.  But still, one day is full of possibilities and the next they pop like soap bubbles, am I right?  Brushing myself off, it isn't long before I decide to blow a new set of hopes and wishes into that little, plastic, circle wand.  Comfort food definitely helps.  I don't think my body would thank me for wallowing in greasy-cheeseburger-fries-and-a-shake self pity but maybe something just a little warm and starchy.

Mushroom and Barley Soup

At least 3 cups of 3 kinds of mushrooms like shitake, cremini and portabella chopped

1 red onion chopped

1 stalk of celery chopped

4 to 6cups beef broth

1/4 cup sherry

1/2 a cup chopped parsley

One sprig of thyme

1 cup barley

sea salt

black pepper

heavy cream (optional and the amount is entirely dependant on how much comfort you are needing, I will not judge you)

3 tablespoons olive oil

In a large pot or dutch oven sautee` your onion and clelery in olive oil until transluscent.  Then add your barley and toss so that it is well coated.  Add chopped mushrooms, sherry and thyme then cover to steam for a minute or two so that the mushrooms reduce in size and the flavors blend.  Note that if your barley is sticking to the pot beforehand add a small amount of liquid such as broth or water to slow the cooking. The add the rest of the broth and simmer until the barley is soft.  Before serving add salt, pepper, parley and heavy cream.

Table Style: Scandinavian Design House

I went on a little window shopping walk in the area and found this great shop.  Scandinavian Design House is a tiny store off Bedford Avenue packed with stylish kitchenwares to add color and style to your favorite room in the house.  I just can't help sharing...

Pillows are made with Marimekko fabrics.

Check it out:

Scandinavian Design House

167 N 9th St.

Brooklyn, NY 11211

Sustainable Spring: Sunchoke Slivers with Green Onions and Hollandaise Sauce

I am ready for change.  Life has been moving a little too slowly for my impatient taste.  Despite my efforts to push it along.  Just once can that really great thing that I have been waiting for happen right now! I always feel this way at this time of the year.  Late March and early April give me these anxious feelings of what I need to be accomplishing or what I should have already accomplished.  At the same, I have great expectations for the rest of the year (more so than in January it seems) and for all the great ways I will take advantage of the beautiful weather.  I am already buying spring dresses meant to be worn without tights, boots or scarves.  Is it really going to snow again this week?

Last week I was reading one of my favorite blogs "Not Eating Out in NY" and learned that Cathy Erway is co-sponsoring a contest entitled "Sustainable Spring." The challenge is to come up with a recipe that is true to the name, that is incorperating sustainable, seasonal ingredients.  The winner gets cooking classes at the Ger-Nis Culinary and Herb Center taught by chef Jacques of Palo Santo.  And the deadline is, oh yeah, today!  What a great way to celebrate and embrace the change in season that is so welcomed after our long cold winter!  I left work yesterday and headed to the Union Square Greenmarket with visions of ramps, peashoots, dandelion greens, artichokes and asparagus before my eyes.  Despite my leaving work as early as I could, I got to the market at twenty to six and the stalls were getting ready to close up for the day.  I found one vegetable stall still in business.  One stall with an overflowing basket of sunchokes.  Deja' vous?  This was all too familiar.  As it seems, last year and the year before, I had hit the farmers market in March with the same aspirations minus the blogger contest and found lots and lots of sunchokes.  Until my moving to Brooklyn and thus making local greenmarkets part of my food shopping routine, I had never heard of or eaten a sunchoke.  I still marvel at the strange little vegetables that they are. They look like ginger knobs, have a texture like a potato but a little crisper, and taste like an artichoke.  This recipe is a variation on the classic steamed/boiled artichoke with hollandaise dipping sauce.

Hollandaise Sauce

1 stick of butter

3 egg yolks

1/2 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon lemon

pinch of cayenne

Melt the butter on low heat in a saucepan.  Do not brown.  In a blender add egg yolks, salt, lemon and cayenne and blend.  While the blender is still on drizzle the butter in slowly.  Taste and adjust your seasonings.  Serve immediately or keep warm up to thirty minutes in a bowl over simmering water.

Sunchoke Slivers

sunchokes (as many as you  like)

drizzle of olive oil

drizzle of lemon

sea salt

Scrub your sunchokes clean and drop in a pot of boiling water in descending order from largest to smallest.  Boil for ten minutes and transfer your sunchokes into a boil of ice water to cool and stop the cooking. Remove the cool sunckokes and slice into 1/4 inch slivers.  Toss in a bowl with all other ingredients.

Place a sheet of parchment on a cookie pan.  Place a layer of you sunchokes on it spread out.  Place in the oven at 475 degrees for 5-8 minutes.  This will dry them a little and make them perfect for dipping.