Simple Spaghetti Pie

So I have been practicing this one.  It looks good going in the pan but it is a tricky thing to turn it over.  Do I use a spatula?  Should I cover the pan with a plate, carefully turn it over and then return it to the pan?  Or do I make the gutsy choice of flipping and risk egg and spaghetti all over my kitchen?

Oh yeah,  I went for it.  Let me tell you I am proud of myself.  I shook the pan a little back and forth like marathon runner rocking to gain momentum before bolting forward.  I hurled this spaghetti upward and let go, fully prepared to have egg on my face, (pun intended).  But no, a split second later, there it was in one piece and showing me its underside.  Damn, no one there to see it.

I am talking about Spaghetti Pie, or at least that is what we call it in English.  I have heard it called by more than one name in Italian and I think that is depending on geographically where the one cooking it is from.  I remember it fondly as what we brought on picnics when I was growing up and it was always made out of our leftover spaghetti.

Thinking of trying this at home?  In the vein of full disclosure, this was not my first try.  I have tried flipping it with a spatula, a dinner plate and yes I have gotten egg all over my stove.  Here's what I learned:  it is all about your spaghetti/egg/cheese ratio. Three eggs to a pound of pasta isn't going to do it.  The best result I have gotten was when I thought I added way too much egg and cheese.  The pictures below show a simple version using some plain leftover spaghetti.  The spaghetti does not have to be plain.  That's like saying all ice cream should be vanilla.  It doesn't even have to be spaghetti for that matter.   One of may favorite versions of this dish was made by a cousin of mine from a leftover pasta salad with salmon (Thanks Clara!).  Just make sure you have plenty of egg and cheese and then you can flip it any way you like.

Simple Spaghetti Pie

• 6 eggs
• 1 cup grated Parmesan or Romano cheese
• 1/4 of a pound cooked pasta (about a bowlful)
• freshly chopped basil of parsley (optional)
• sea salt
• freshly ground black pepper
• 3 to 4 tablespoons of olive oil

Beat the eggs cheese in a medium bowl with a fork or a wire whisk.  Add salt, pepper and chopped herbs if you choose to add them.  Add spaghetti to the eggs and cheese.  Heat your olive oil over medium high heat.  Remember you don't want you olive oil to get to a smoking point.  When I tip my pan and the oil runs like water it is hot enough.  Add your egg, cheese and spaghetti mixture and cook until the underside is set.  You may need to lower the heat so your egg doesn't get too brown.  When the bottom is fully cooked, cover with a dinner plate and turn your pan over with both hands (don't forget you oven mitt!) then slide back into the pan.  Or flip it in the air if you are feeling brave!  Cook until the bottom is set.  You can check the center with a fork.  If the center is dry, its done.

Ragu Bolognese

This is one of Nick's absolute favorite dishes.  I should have written about it before now.  It is the ultimate in comfort food and a recipe I have made so often I know it in my sleep.  Particularly because I am a stickler for how it is done.  It isn't difficult or complicated but when one step or ingredient is amiss I can taste it.  

I have had some lively discussions with fellow enthusiasts of this dish as to its contents.  Some use tomato, some don't.  There have been those known to use red wine (although I prefer dry white so as not to overpower the other flavors).  Some use just beef and others use beef, veal and pork in thirds.  My brother does a great version using that variety of meat, pancetta and minus the tomato.  I always like the fresh contrast of tomato and parsley against the richness of the meat.  These ingredients are flexible but it is the liquid reductions that are important in tenderizing the meat and infusing it with flavor.  First milk, then wine and, if you like, tomato.  It is those reductions that define the difference between a meat sauce and a ragu.

This recipe will make a decent amount so you should know that it freezes well, is awesome over polenta as well as pasta and will make your lasagna unforgettable.

Ragu Bolognese

• diced pancetta
• 1 lb ground beef
• 1 onion chopped
• 2 to 3 carrots finely chopped
• 2 celery stalks, ends trimmed and chopped
• 2 cups milk
• 2 cups dry white wine
• 1 cup San Marzano tomato puree (or about half a 16 oz can)
• freshly ground nutmeg to taste
• 1/4 cup chopped parsley
• 2 to 3 tablespoons olive oil
• salt (kosher or sea) to taste
• freshly ground black pepper to taste
• freshly grated parmesan or romano cheese to taste

In a heavy bottomed sauce pot or dutch oven, saute` pancetta in olive oil just enough to give it color and to render some of the fat and release the flavor.  Add your chopped aromatics, onions, celery and carrots.  Saute` until soft and the onions are translucent.  Add your ground meat and cook until no longer pink, breaking it up into smaller and smaller chunks while it is cooking.  Add milk and let simmer until the milk is absorbed into the meat, about 15 minutes.  Add freshly ground nutmeg to taste.  Add wine and let simmer until it is absorbed into the meat, also about 15 minutes.  Add your tomato puree and let simmer for a minimum of 30 minutes but up to an  hour stirring occasionally.  Add parsley, salt and pepper before serving.  Serve over pasta or polenta with grated cheese. 

Dinner on the Fly: Spaghetti and Meatballs

Spaghetti and meatballs.  Do I even need to write anything else?  It is sinful and comforting, ethnic and universal.  Some version of this classic dish has been a part of almost all of our kitchens growing up.  My favorite version of it is the simplest one.  What is your recipe?  Do you make it spicy or give it a twist?

Meatballs

• 1/2 lb ground beef, pork or veal (or a combination)
• 1 clove of garlic, chopped
• 1/2 an onion, chopped
• 1 egg
• 1/2 teaspoon oregano
• 1/4 cup bread crumbs
• 1/4 cup Parmesan cheese

Preheat your oven to 400 degrees.  Line a sheet pan with  parchment paper.  Put all the ingredients a food processor and pulse until blended.  Careful not to pulse too much or you will get a puree.  take about 1/2 a cup of your mixture (small snowball size ) and roll into a ball.  Place each one on the parchment paper lined pan about 2 inches apart.  Keep a bowl of water nearby to dip your hands in so that the meat doesn't stick when you are rolling it. Bake for 25 minutes. then add to your tomato sauce.

Tomato Sauce

• one can of crushed tomatoes
• 2 to 3 tablespoons of olive oil
• 2 cloves of garlic, smashed and peeled
• sea salt
• black pepper 
• chopped fresh parsley
• Parmesan cheese

Heat olive oil in a saucepan on medium low heat.  Add garlic (with cloves intact or chopped if you like your sauce a little more garlicky).  Sautee` until fragrant but be careful not to burn.  When fragrant add your tomatoes and stir.  Keep at a simmer for about an hour.  Add meatballs when done (about 25 minutes into your simmer). Add salt, pepper and parsley before serving.  Top with Parmesan cheese after tossing with your cooked pasta.